The Wide Open Spaces of Jackson Hole, Wyoming

There’s a notorious windsurfing credo: “Never leave wind to find wind.” You might think the same about not leaving one amazing Western ski resort town to visit another … but as a longtime Park City resident and tried-and-true promoter of Utah skiing, I must say, I always make an exception for Jackson Hole.

You talk about the wide open spaces of the American West? Jackson Hole is the picture on that postcard. Even the drive there from Park City is beautiful, with endless landscapes of farm fields, sagebrush, rock formations and herds of grazing pronghorns. Your mind, like the landscape, will open, and your imagination will get a long-overdue turn to play. Who once lived in that forgotten cabin, leaning precariously next to one sheltering cottonwood tree on a wide and windy expanse, sunlight shifting through its decrepit wooden slats? And then you’ll turn at Alpine, Wyoming, onto a road that becomes more and more lush as you progress, winding along the mighty Snake River, into the forest, climbing into the mountains, into Jackson Hole.

The vastness, beauty and power of this landscape make no bones about letting us know right off, we are insignificant. Nature rules here. From the way that wind blows swirls of snow off the ridges at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort like some magic spirit, to the jaw-dropping cornices and chutes, to the “Moose Crossing” signs along the way to Teton Village, to the thousands of elk who winter here, to the bison we passed (thank goodness from a distance) while out snowshoeing … nature is in charge here, and we are just lucky to stand back and respectfully admire it.

That’s not to say that anyone has to rough it when visiting Jackson. In the past decade in particular, the town has developed every human comfort you could possibly desire, from upscale lodging to fine dining restaurants, to spas and galleries, yet all without losing the rustic Western character of the town.

Real cowboys, fly-fishing guides and ski instructors saunter into local bars and take a swirl around the dance floor at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, and ski bums will cook you breakfast burritos you won’t soon forget. Old wooden sidewalks in the heart of town sound just right under cowgirl boots. And the fact that the breathtaking Grand Tetons and Yellowstone National Park are right there never let you forget, that though your accommodations are so gorgeous they make you feel like royalty, the real star of this show is the great outdoors.

MUST DO’S:

• Stop into the Granary restaurant at Spring Creek Ranch for an après-ski drink at the bar with an unsurpassed view of the area. Order a margarita. Kids are welcome and can have ice cream while you have a drink.

• Founded in 1998, the Off Square Theatre is the resident company at the Jackson Hole Center for the Arts. Its new 500-seat performance pavilion opened in March 2007, built with specifications to rival professional theaters across the country. Uniquely Jackson, the performance hall lobby boasts spectacular views of Snow King Mountain. They run a full schedule of shows throughout the year.

• The 51,000-square-foot building that houses the National Museum of Wildlife Art is a unique piece of art in its own right. With 433 tons of Arizona sandstone used in its design, the building blends right into the rock cliffs it inhabits. A stunning collection of the best wildlife art from around the country (think Charles Russell and Carl Rungius) are on display in 4,000 paintings, sculptures and photographs. The Children’s Discovery Gallery is a fantastic and enlightening hands-on experience. The National Elk Refuge, founded in 1912 to protect a then-dwindling population, is across the street, and offers sleigh rides through the refuge, where you can watch nearly 7,000 elk wintering in the area.

• Stop into the Silver Dollar Bar at the historic Wort Hotel. Check out the 2,000 silver dollar coins embedded in the bar. This place just makes you feel like having a scotch. Kids are welcome until 6 p.m.

LOOK LIKE A LOCAL:

Two clothing companies founded in Jackson Hole provide not only the look, but the function that outdoor adventurers seek, whether you’re about to run a river or have a tall one at the bar. Both companies were created by locals who saw the need for a niche product, and made it cool. Check out Mountain Khakis’ original mountain pant or the oh-so-soft cottonwood corduroys (mountainkhakis.com). You want to know who the locals are in the lift lines? They’re wearing Cloudveil soft shell jackets in beautiful, earth-toned colors that won’t stand out as they steal your line down the mountain (cloudveil.com).

DINE LIKE A LOCAL:

• Have a sourdough pancake breakfast at Dornan’s (summer only) at a picnic table along the Snake River with a view of the Grand Tetons you’ll never forget. In winter, stop by their place for a glass of wine and an appetizer.

• You have to visit the Mangy Moose at least once during your visit — for lunch, dinner or après-ski. Right at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, it’s always been the center of the action in Teton Village, especially in the evening hours.

• Rendezvous Bistro is one of the newer restaurants with a great, upbeat atmosphere and great food; we like Nani’s Genuine Pasta House for that cozy Italian restaurant experience; and the Snake River Grill provides the ultimate in comfort food.

SKI LIKE A LOCAL:

Snow King Resort (400 acres) is great for family skiing (or tubing), day or night (www.snowking.com), and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is known simply as “The Big One.” With 2,500 acres and 116 runs plus open-gate access to 3,000 acres of backcountry skiing, it lives up to its name. With views you’ll never forget, you DO have to make at least one trip to the very top to Corbet’s Cabin at 10,450’. And you DO have to ski the thigh-numbing Hobacks at least once. (jacksonhole.com)

LODGE LIKE A VISITOR:

Opened in 1939, Snow King Resort is the local’s ski mountain, the first ski resort in Wyoming and one of the first in the United States. Just six blocks from the Jackson Town Square, walking to town for evening festivities is a breeze. Though the main lodge and restaurants maintain their wonderful, folksy feel, the resort has recently completed brand new construction of the Love Ridge Resort Lodges. These spacious and beautifully appointed condominiums are fantastic for friend and family trips, and not as expensive as some of the lodging at Teton Village. (loveridgelodge.com)

In town, try Rusty Parrot Lodge, an elegant bed and breakfast with a fabulous onsite spa (rustyparrot.com), or The Alpine House, an intimate 22-room European-style Inn run by past U.S. Ski Team Nordic members (alpinehouse.com). In Teton Village at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, try the Teton Mountain Lodge and Spa (tetonlodge.com), four-diamond Snake River Lodge and Spa (rockresorts.com), or the more affordable Best Western Inn at Jackson Hole (innatjh.com).

Kristen Gould Case likes to lose herself in the splendor of Jackson Hole, Wyoming several times a year.

For more information, view jacksonholechamber.com.