25 Years of Classy Cuisine at Stein Eriksen Lodge

Chef Zane Holmquist holds this perhaps obsessive event twice a year to educate his wait staff and other Lodge employees about what they’re serving in the famed Stein Eriksen Lodge restaurants each season. This is a serious endeavor, costing the Lodge $10,000 to host. Why? “I expect to have the best educated staff in the state and the country,” says Holmquist.

Such lofty goals and this high level of commitment to detail are what make Stein’s stand out as one of the top-rated hotels in the world. With a AAA Five Diamond rating for the hotel, and a AAA Four Diamond rating for the restaurants, in addition to a slew of rankings and awards from such prestigious entities as Travel & Leisure, the Zagat Survey, Conde Nast Traveler, SKI Magazine, Wine Spectator, DiRona, Mobil and more, it’s amazing to think that the Lodge came into being 25 years ago on a mere handshake.

In 1980, a dashing Norwegian Olympic skier named Stein Eriksen agreed to be the new Deer Valley Resort’s director of skiing. He and Resort founder Edgar Stern were walking around the aspen-covered property when Stein suggested, almost as a joke, “How about the Stein Eriksen Lodge here, Edgar?” Stern told Eriksen that if he got construction going immediately, it was a deal. They shook on it. The Lodge opened in 1982, with hand-carved Norwegian cabinetry, more than 100 massive stone fireplaces, and backgammon tables and Stein’s Olympic medals on display in the beautiful lobby. Stein’s provides unique touches such as staff lighting guest room fireplaces or dimming the lights and leaving slippers and chocolates by the beds at night; having an exclusive Lodge sommelier; and exhibiting Stein Eriksen’s “suit du jour” in the hotel lobby so that admiring fans can spot Stein carving his signature turns down the ski slopes of Deer Valley Resort.

Over the years, Stein Eriksen Lodge has added convention space and an over-the-top full-service spa. In 2006, another major renovation was completed, doubling the size of the Troll Hallen Lounge (the beautiful bar) and expanding the size of the Glitretind restaurant to nearly 5,000 square feet. Ah, yes. Back to the food.

When Stein’s opened in 1982, it was the first place in town to train its wait staff as professionals. Suddenly, ski-bums-turned-waiters were tasting wines, and learning about fish forks and the difference between arugula and radicchio. Many of Park City’s current restaurant professionals were trained at Stein’s at one point or another. And Stein’s just keeps raising the bar.

The wait staff calls Zane Holmquist simply and respectfully, “Chef.” He is as concerned about the food products he hand selects — the Kobe beef, the lamb and fresh vegetables from local farmers — as he would be of his own children. And he has his opinions about how to serve each dish. Of Stein’s Norwegian potato and bacon pancake, with pork Chef hand-selected himself, he says, “No, we won’t make these pancakes without the bacon. It wouldn’t be right. If you don’t eat meat, order something else.” Though there are plenty of vegetarian or light fare options on Lodge menus, he talks about the fact that there’s a place for “satisfying the palate with fat.” If guests comment that their braised Kobe short ribs with boniato purée, yellow and green beans and horseradish paint are “fatty,” Chef replies, “Good! You paid extra for that!” All joking aside, however, Chef is ultimately committed to each and every customer. When the rare complaint does come in, Holmquist calls that guest personally to discuss it. And the very serious amount of time he spends educating his staff about each and every ingredient in each and every dish so that they can prevent customers from having allergic or emotional reactions to anything, shows his respect for his diners.

By the time dessert rolls around — handcrafted Belgian and French chocolates from on-site pastry chef Raymond Lammers — and the Pistachio Gelato Bombe (homemade pistachio gelato and morel cherry sorbet with almond crumbles and apricot and pistachio sauces) — the staff is rolling, too. And they’ll get quizzed on all of this tomorrow. Guests, however, can experience Stein’s amazing cuisine any day they like, at their own pace, one fabulous taste at a time.

Congratulations, Stein Eriksen Lodge, on bringing Park City — and visitors from around the world — exquisite cuisine, impeccable service, and an inspiring example of excellence for 25 years.

Park City Magazine editor Kristen Gould Case waited tables at Stein Eriksen Lodge in 1986. She still likes to eat her way through the menu whenever she is invited.