The Other Side of the Mountains

Anyone who witnessed that heart-stopping moment when Olympic skier Bode Miller went horizontal, grazing his hip on the snow while ripping down Snowbasin resort’s Grizzly course during the 2002 Olympics Men’s Downhill, will never forget it. Miller recovered and we breathed a collective sigh of relief. Then, and throughout those Olympic Games, we marveled at Snowbasin’s long runs and sumptuous lodges which were, up until then, perhaps Utah’s best-kept secret. Sure, hardcore skiers from Park City and Salt Lake City, along with Ogden’s faithful locals, have embraced Snowbasin for years, in all its incarnations (the ski area dates back to the early 1940s). But for the uninitiated, we have just three words: Check It Out.

The loopy drive from Park City to Snowbasin, just outside the city of Ogden, runs 60 miles and takes about an hour and half. From the Salt Lake City International Airport , it’s a mere 33 miles. But in terms of the area’s breathtaking terrain, low-population density and laid-back attitude (yes, even with the upscale lodge décor), Snowbasin may as well be half a world away. In fact, basking on the deck of the elegantly appointed Needles Lodge, or the even higher and oh-so-posh John Paul Lodge — cradled in a graceful cirque, with surroundings of craggy mountaintops, aerial views and brisk air, it’s almost like going to the Austrian Alps, without the jet lag.

Just so you know which league we’re playing in here, the resort’s name was officially changed to “Snowbasin, A Sun Valley Resort,” in 2001. This was 17 years after its purchase by Earl Holding, of Sinclair Oil fame. The mountain is part of the Sinclair Corporation family of companies, which also include Salt Lake’s luxurious Grand America Hotel, Little America Hotels and Idaho’s Sun Valley Resort. This goes a long way in explaining the ambiance of Snowbasin’s lodges, the investment in snowmaking equipment and weather stations, and the world-class gondolas and lifts.

Prior to the 2002 Winter Games and right up to the opening ceremonies, Holding’s team worked day and night to improve and equip the runs that cascade down from the resort’s five major peaks, each above 9,000 feet. Today, Snowbasin’s Grizzly and Wildflower runs are acknowledged as two of the most challenging downhill racecourses ever traced on a mountain. Allen’s Peak and its neighbor, No Name, beckon the hardcore with expert-only terrain, as do three other legendary faces and a thriller of a ride called John Paul, just off of the resort’s Easter Bowl run. With 2,650 skiable acres, 53 designated runs and 2, 950 vertical feet to play with, intermediate and beginning skiers can also exhaust themselves with quick rides up (two high-speed gondolas make the climb in just eight minutes and the resort has a lift capacity of 14,650 passengers per hour) and long, exhilarating trips down the mountain. Elk Ridge, the longest of Snowbasin’s long runs, starts at the top of the Strawberry Express gondola and can best be described as a 1.9-mile intermediate cruiser’s dream.

Beyond alpine and snowboard terrain (the resort has two terrain parks), Snowbasin offers the Maples Nordic Loop (free of charge) with 19km of groomed beginner and intermediate trails. If you don’t mind climbing, you’ll revel in the “secret spot” known as the Old Road to the Basin where you’ll find 5 km (one way) of groomed terrain for telemark, traditional/diagonal and skate skiing. The Old Road to the Basin trail can be reached by parking in the lower parking lot of Snowbasin Resort and following the trailhead sign at the base of the parking lot. It is also possible to drive to the Art Nord Trailhead and ski uphill to Snowbasin Resort. Peaceful snowshoeing is also an option in and around both areas.

When you’re not on hill or trail, make tracks to one of the resort’s four deluxe lodges. They include Earl’s Lodge (dining, full bar and lounging areas), the Grizzly Center at the base (tickets, rentals, merchandise) and the spectacular Needles and John Paul Lodges, just below the summit for meals, warming up and après-ski canoodling. The day lodges greet skiers with fine hand-woven carpets and 24-carat gold plated chandeliers that vie with Italian Murano glass chandeliers for the ‘wow’ factor overhead. Everywhere you look, upholstery is cushy, fireplaces are grand and roaring. And, the food is excellent (wood-fired oven pizzas and cooked-to-order stir fry dishes are among the offerings in “servery” areas), but — the folks at Snowbasin want you to feel free to tromp around in your boots and make yourself at home.

Lodging and More

Today, lodging is the only element missing in Snowbasin’s impressive package. Spokespeople there will say only, “Someday there may be a hotel at the resort.” So don’t hold your breath, and know that nearby, desirable developments, such as Wolf Creek Resort (20 minutes away), offer several excellent options in fully equipped rental condos, many with views of Snowbasin’s mighty peaks.

Families will appreciate the friendly, open vibe at Wolf Creek. You’ll lack for nothing here, as the resort has its own Grill restaurant serving contemporary American fare, including plenty of comfort food. You’ll have easy access to a Nordic track on the golf course, tubing hills and a mainline to major snowmobiling trails. For the hardy, there’s ice fishing on Pineview Reservoir. The Wolf Creek development prides itself on its low-key personality. Most serious skiers and families find it refreshing to know that favorite evening pastimes are stargazing, full-moon Nordic skiing or snowshoeing and warming up at outdoor fire pits. You won’t find a Utah State Liquor Store outlet, but the onsite restaurant offers a nice wine list and a full bar. If you’re planning on cooking and dining in, bring your own libations. Wolf Creek’s accommodating staff will “pre-shop” for you and stock your condo with food, by the way.

Wolf Creek is also a great base camp for treks to sentimental favorites — Powder Mountain and Nordic Valley ski areas. Powder Mountain, which offers 5,500 acres of groomed runs and powder skiing also offers heli-skiing and cat skiing and is widely known as a backcountry paradise. Nordic Valley, Odgen’s “backyard” resort, appeals to budget-minded skiers or any parent who wants her kids to step into their first skiing or snowboarding experience in a gentle environment.

If condos don’t ring your chimes and you’re on a budget, consider the down-to-earth Atomic Chalet, a find in nearby Huntsville. The no-frills (but very comfy, with a good skier’s breakfast) Euro-style bed and breakfast was designed, built and run by Wes Welch, who says he “answers the tele, serves breakfast, cleans house and manages to ski over 100 days a season.”

Finally, while you’re around Huntsville or nearby Eden, make it a point to wrap your lips around a juicy Star Burger and shoot some pool at Utah’s longest-operating saloon — the Shooting Star. And, enjoy at least one meal or an ice cream binge at the Eden General Store, an old-fashioned, packed-to-the-rafters mercantile that dates back to 1880 and used to house a dance hall upstairs.

Contacts:

Snowbasin
888.437.5488
Ski Report 801.620.1100
www.snowbasin.com • Day pass $55

Wolf Creek Resort
877.492.1061 • 801.745-3737
www.wolfcreekresort.com

Ogden/Weber Convention and Visitors Bureau
1-800-ALL-UTAH or www.ogdencvb.org