Watermelon gazpacho, vichyssoise, snap pea soup and more ... go ahead and take the plunge
Photography: Timothy Thimmes
Ahh … the sheer joy of a perfectly seasoned chilled soup on a sizzling summer’s day. When you think about it, there’s actually something sort of sexy about cold soups. Their quality relies on the ripest, most flavorful fruits and vegetables, often puréed and presented with their inherent, lush flavors shining through. Because ingredients are mostly au naturel, the colors are rich and vibrant ... boldly inviting you to dip right in. This summer, go ahead and take the plunge.
Typically, when people think of cold soups, they picture a variation of gazpacho, the brilliant Spanish staple with its ripe tomato base, traditionally puréed with bread, olive oil, a zip of vinegar, fresh lemon, herbs and cucumber. No doubt, this gorgeous concoction hits the spot when the temperature spikes. It’s unbelievably good for you (lycopene in spades), and if you have an afternoon of hiking or biking ahead of you, a generous bowl of gazpacho certainly won’t weigh you down.
Another classic cold soup is silky, rich vichyssoise — the creamy potato and leek soup kissed with fresh chives. Word is, Anthony Bourdain — one of cable television’s most macho chefs — says vichyssoise ignited his passion for food when he first tasted it on a transatlantic voyage on the Queen Mary when he was just 9 years old.
But beyond the classics, the pantheon of chilled soups based on ripe summer produce is growing all the time. It’s interesting, then, that Stein Eriksen Lodge Chef Zane Holmquist says although his repertoire includes almost 40 versions of cold soups, “They’re generally less popular than you’d think. They tend to be more popular among women and younger guests.”
So, if you aren’t already a convert, you’re missing out. Make this your summer to expand your soup horizons, and don’t worry about adjusting to that old rhythm that includes blowing on the soup to cool it off. Just dip your spoon and enjoy — or sip from a cup or thermos. Here’s a sampling of some of the creative cold soup offerings you’ll find on Park City menus this summer:
Bob Murphy, Souperman owner and chef, is sold on chilled soups for summer. “By their very definition they’re cool and refreshing,” he says. “People like them because they’re a light choice for summer dining. They’re also a healthy choice, as most contain a lot of vegetables.” This summer, Souperman’s the place to go for cool cucumber and shrimp; roasted pepper with parmesan toast; and avocado soup with salsa verde, as well as Murphy’s versions of gazpacho and vichyssoise. All of Murphy’s soups are homemade and gluten free, and for each 16 ounces of soup sold, Bob donates five cents to the Huntsman Cancer Institute for ovarian cancer research.
At the Stein Eriksen Lodge, look for inspired soups with both fresh fruits and vegetables. You’ll feel cooler just contemplating Chef Holmquist’s watermelon gazpacho; champagne and honeydew; strawberry and tomato with microbasil; and chilled sweet potato soup with spicy sausage.
Deer Valley’s Royal Street Café is home to Clark Norris’s irresistible gazpacho and Chef Jodie Beros’ summery sugar snap pea soup with curry oil or lemon cream and a dollop of lobster salad. “Once the word gets out, the snap pea soup is in demand,” she says. Beros also notes that “chilled soups are slowly becoming fashionable again. I find people are more willing to taste them if they’re served as a small appetizer in a demitasse cup.”
350 Main’s Michael LeClerc will be spooning up a chilled melon soup with margarita marinated melon balls and chipotle-cilantro cream this summer. And if you can resist that combo, more power to you.
Virginia Rainey is a Salt Lake-based freelance writer with a focus on good food and the people who produce it.
Chilled Snap Pea Soup
Serves 4
1-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 shallot, minced
2 cups chicken stock
1 pound tender sugar snap peas
1/4 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper, to taste
Optional Garnishes
Lemon Cream:
1/2 cup heavy cream
Lemon zest, to taste
Lemon juice, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
Curry Oil:
1/2 cup canola oil
1-1/2 tablespoons
curry powder
Process:
Melt the butter and sauté the shallots until soft. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the peas, bring back to a boil and remove from the heat. Purée the soup in the blender and then add the cream. Season and chill.
For the Lemon Cream:
Whip all ingredients until stiff. Add dollop to each serving.
For the Curry Oil:
Heat the oil and curry. Cool, keep at room temperature. Drizzle desired amount over each serving.
From Executive Chef Jodie Beros, Deer Valley Resort
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