Lava Hot Springs

The vacation town of Lava Hot Springs is filled with a magical presence. You can feel it in the way people get along, the way they easily strike up conversations and friendships. A kind of peace permeates the township, affecting everyone who visits. Moreover, this sense of camaraderie appears to have a long history that goes back to the days when Shoshone, Crow and other tribes ranged this part of Southeastern Idaho. They named the butte that rises above town Spirit Mountain and then, in a rare display of cooperation, these frequently warring peoples created a demilitarized zone ? a sort of check your tomahawk at the door policy.

European settlers eventually moved in, displacing the natives, and in 1902, the land was officially taken over by the federal government. The Bannock Shoshones responded by cursing it. There are various stories about the nature of the jinx, but some of the locals think Lava was cursed into stagnation ? a community that would never grow and never die. In fact, Lava's population has remained static for the last 80 years, hovering at around 600 residents. Visitors immediately notice the advanced age of the town's buildings and that there isn't a single chain store or franchise. In general, Lava appears to have changed little over the last half century, exuding a rustic charm that hearkens back to earlier and simpler times.

In sharp contrast to more modernized resort towns like Park City, Lava boasts twice as many campsites as rooms, and only a couple of motels have Internet access. Your cell phone may not get service, either. This is not necessarily a bad thing, however. When going to Lava, plan to become truly disconnected from the outside world and become more connected to the places and people surrounding you.

Despite the quaintness of the town, or perhaps because of it, people do flock to Lava. Its slightly acidic and mineralized hot springs, powered by a mass of hot magma below the surface, are the main attraction. When groundwater comes into contact with the magma , the water becomes superheated and bubbles up to exit along a fault line at the northeast end of town. There is percolates out of the ground at about 110 degrees Fahrenheit, then proceeds to flow through two large wading pools and three small sitting pools before flowing into the Portneuf River. It takes two hours for the water to pass through this system. By the time it reaches the river, it has cooled to roughly 105 degrees. The beauty of this design is that there is a continuous range of water temperatures to choose from for soaking, and no chlorine is required to keep the water clean. This constant flow (coupled with periodic flushings of the entire system) keeps the water fresh and sanitary.

Over the decades, an Olympic-sized swimming pool, water tubes and slides were added to a new facility at the other end of town. While the original baths remain open all year, these newer pools have traditionally closed during the winter. This year, however, Lava will open a new 25-meter swimming pool for year-round enjoyment. 

This latest addition is just one attempt to increase off-season tourism in Lava. The town's economy is currently driven by the summer season, when available rooms and campsites are difficult to find, the river is full of floaters and boaters, the restaurants are crowded, and the pools are filled to overflowing. Brett Mathie of the Thunder Canyon Golf Club quips that "during the summer you can walk across the pool on people's heads without getting your feet wet."

Not so during the rest of the year, when it is easy to find a room, there's always an open table at the bars and restaurants, and you sometimes find yourself sitting in a pool by yourself. Therein lies the economic dilemma for Lava. Mark Lowe, state manager of the pools and baths, mentioned that "like an elk herd, we fatten up during the summer and then go on a starvation diet the rest of the year."

The community is trying to change that. This year saw the first "Fire and Ice Festival" ? a three day event in February with a casino night, barista contest, wine tasting, river float and chili cook-off. Cross-country skiing and snowmobiling opportunities are being developed, while efforts are being made to attract more meetings and conventions. It seems to be working. Lava Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce President Nathleen Rife says that "this has been the busiest winter I have ever seen."

No matter what the season, Lava offers plenty to do. Outside of the pools, two of the more popular activities are bingo and karaoke - further demonstrating the contrast between Lava and other western resort towns. Mark Lowe confided that Lava could never be a Park City and, quite frankly, doesn't want to be. Lava mainly attracts middle class families and couples. The no-frills ambience of the town and the down-to-earth attitude of the locals make for a comfortable interaction. One might say that the ancient Indian policy has evolved…the custom now is to check your attitude at the door.

There is more to Lava, however, than recreation and relaxation - natural healing is a big part of the town's history, mystique, and appeal. The formation of a permanent community didn't really start until Idaho set up a foundation to develop the hot springs in 1919. Pools and a mud-bath were built, and then a sanitarium and a natatorium were established ? places where people with tuberculosis, polio and other ailments were placed on special diets and water regimens to help alleviate their symptoms. Only then did commercial lodging, restaurants and shops establish themselves in Lava.

In subsequent decades, many of these diseases were conquered by antibiotics, leading to the closure of the clinics. Still, folks continued to come from all over to treat a variety of problems. Bob Rush grew up in a nearby community and said that "the local lore was that whatever ails you, come down to Lava to get healed." Building upon this tradition, Evelee Hill opened up Aura Soma Lava in 1996, the area's first retreat for homeopathic medicine and alternative healing. Like many, Evelee feels that there is something special about Lava, that it's a place where the natural and the supernatural intersect in a unique way. Nathleen Rife concurs. "There's a healing spiritual feeling about the town" she says.

Without a doubt, there is something special about Lava. From deep down in the earth bubbles uniquely mineralized water at exactly the right temperature for human comfort. It somehow manages to bring people together to heal, to lighten their spirits, and to fortify relationships. A visit might very well make you feel younger, happier, more peaceful, or more positive. If that ain't magic, it's a good substitute.

www.lavahotsprings.org.

When not playing in the mountains, rivers, deserts, and, yes, hot springs of the western United States, Greg Tanner plays the advertising rep role for Park City Magazine. He previously published and wrote for the film journal Prevue Magazine.