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Give Yourself the Royal Treatment

OK, I admit it. I have actually planned a long summer morning hike off of Guardsman Pass or along one of Deer Valley’s many trails based on the fantasy that, come lunchtime, I’ll be mid-mountain, sipping a tall Mojito on the deck at the Royal Street Café. Said Mojito will tide me over as I sit back and watch legions of mighty mountain bikers careen down the hill while I await the arrival of a huge shrimp and lobster “margarita.” When that vision appears in an oversized martini glass, all eyes will be on the bright, tropical beauty. The minute the polite Deer Valley-schooled server sets it down on the table, I will greedily scoop up a bite of lobster mingled with fresh-made papaya salsa and guacamole with a crisp, golden corn tortilla. I’ll be thanking my lucky stars for such a glorious day while soaking up the sun and probably contemplating dessert.

Fortunately, it’s a snap to make that fantasy a reality, and I recommend you take advantage of it as many times as possible over the summer. Whether or not you’re a biker or a hiker, it’s fun to watch the action at the Silver Lake Bike Corral or to take the Silver Lake Express lift from the base of Deer Valley, stop at Royal Street, and then jump back on the lift for bird’s eye views of Park City and beyond.

Royal Street Café is situated in Silver Lake Lodge, mid-mountain at Deer Valley Resort. During ski season, it’s a wildly popular destination for lunch, après-ski or dinner. In the summer months, the café reverts to lunch only, no reservations. Often, there is a wait, but you can put your name on the list and go peruse the shops at Silver Lake and the Stein Eriksen Lodge or just lie back on the grass and watch the clouds go by until your name is called.

Unless it’s raining, seating is on the deck—and for good reason. Out there, you’re surrounded by lush mountain conifer and aspen groves and gently warmed by the sun but shaded by big canvas umbrellas. The mountain scenery swirls around you, ripe with summer scents—from the aromas of sunscreen and the smoky delights of the grill, to the occasional earthy aromas of all those trees and wildflowers. As magical as that deck is on a sunny day, I wouldn’t mind a long lunch inside Royal Street on a rainy day. You can settle into a big booth with a few friends, savor a superb Vermont cheddar burger, sip a great red wine and contemplate superb views of the mountain and make an afternoon of it.

Chef Clark Norris’s Royal Street menu adheres to the Deer Valley mantra of freshness and harmony, innovation and flavor. It’s all there. On the light side, even the ever-popular edamame—steamed soy beans in their pods—get the “royal” treatment with natural sea salt and a lip-smacking hoisin dipping sauce. The whole grilled artichoke with lemon-roasted garlic marinade is rich and nutty tasting—a perfect foil for sundried tomato aioli. Share it so you’ll have room for a major sandwich, such as the D.V.B.L.T.—piled high with fresh roasted turkey breast, cherry chutney and maple peppered bacon on housemade sourdough, along with the requisite side of fries. Asian Chicken Salad is a classic here, composed of savory orange-glazed chicken with fresh greens in a soy-ginger vinaigrette, with the emphasis on the ginger. I also favor the grilled tuna tacos with fresh mango-avocado salsa, southwest slaw and faintly spicy chipotle mayonnaise.

Unless you’re not from these parts, you know that you cannot leave Deer Valley without having a good helping of dessert. The resort’s pastry chefs, led by Letty Flatt, are formidable. Capable of complex and delicate feats, they keep things simple on Royal Street’s summer menu. Making a selection? Not so simple. The Royal chocolate brownie is served nice and warm, topped with malted milk ice cream and almond brittle. At the opposite end of the flavor spectrum, McHenry’s frozen lemon meringue pie with raspberry sauce is so zingy with lemon, it will knock your socks off, if you’re wearing any. There’s also a killer ice cream sandwich with vanilla ice cream layered between Deer Valley’s famous chocolate chip cookies and drizzled with hot fudge sauce. Take your pick, but do take one.

And about that Mojito? In true Deer Valley style, the Royal Street Café version goes the extra mile. It begins with a base of fresh, housemade minted lemonade and smashed fresh mint. It’s spiked with Bacardi Silver Rum, finished with soda and a float of Meyer’s Rum, and served in a tall bistro glass. A straight up minted lemonade is divine, too.

Royal Street Café, Silver Lake Lodge, Deer Valley Resort. Open daily, June 16 through Labor Day, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 435.645.6724.

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