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Park City's Wining Ways

Timing, as they say, is everything. As it happens, three new Park City businesses catering to wine lovers opened their doors at more or less the same time that the hit film, “Sideways” was causing wine drinkers to flee from Merlot and run to Pinot Noir by the droves. In addition, Old Town’s original wine bar got a boost from the wine craze that followed on the heels of “Sideways,” even if they did have to cancel a few
Merlot orders.

It’s easy to forget that Renee’s Bar and Café—Park City’s first wine bar—has been around since, well, before the Winter Olympics came to town. Renee’s is a wine bar, vegetarian café, and live music venue all wrapped up in one. Although as this article went to press, Renee’s moved out of its location in the Gateway Center, Renee is currently looking for a new Main Street location. Not to worry—she’ll be back, offering the intimate environment, great selection and easy-going attitude that’s made Renee’s so popular with locals and visitors alike. Renee’s is serious about wine. Along with a large selection of both New and Old World wines by the glass or bottle, Renee’s also serves up some of the best martinis in town.

And the extensive and eclectic array of tapas-style appetizers at Renee’s (in addition to their larger entrées) is a bonanza for food and wine pairing experimentation. Gruyere mashed potato cannelloni with an Alsatian Riesling, perhaps? Or how about a powerhouse Super Tuscan alongside Renee’s black-eyed pea cakes with red pepper aioli? Then again, maybe a glass of Champagne and the sweet sounds of live jazz are all you need. One thing about Renee’s: there are options aplenty, so … wine not?

Of course, sometimes we enjoy sipping our wine at home. With the opening of The Art of Wine in Snow Creek, that pleasurable hobby just got a whole lot easier. At Sara Henry’s Art of Wine store, you’ll discover a treasure trove of gifts and gadgets for even the pickiest wine snob, along with fine cigars and cigar accessories. The Art of Wine stocks everything from corkscrews and wine racks to wine coolers and wine art. And wine tasting classes are held most Friday nights at The Art of Wine. But probably the biggest draw—especially for Park City’s hosts and hostesses—is the large array of wine glassware for sale. At The Art of Wine, discriminating wine aficionados can choose from high-performance stemware like Spiegelau and Riedel, not to mention a terrific selection of books about wine and a knowledgeable sales staff to help you find the perfect tools for that prized bottle of Chateau Lafite Rothschild you’ve been saving for decades.

Like to curl up next to the fire with a good book and a glass of wine? Well, now you can do it in public. At Karen Dallett’s new Spotted Frog Bookstore in Redstone, you can read and sip to your heart’s content. The Spotted Frog’s café features a small, eclectic list of wines by the glass, including Smoking Loon Viognier from Napa and Jeriko Mendocino Pinot Noir, as well as beer imports like Spaten and Chimay. With a mouthwatering selection of pastries and snacks to choose from, The Spotted Frog Bookstore is an ideal place to curl up with a good glass of wine and maybe Jay McInerney’s book, “Bacchus and Me.” And according to Spotted Frog sommelier Zev Rovine, this unique book emporium will soon be hosting wine education classes and food and wine pairings.

Since opening Bacchus Wine Bar this winter, owners Tony Eicher and Meshelle Oliver have been too busy to spend much time at their second home, which is in Bali. Then again, they might feel right at home at Bacchus since they brought much of Bali with them. Originally envisioned as more or less a hobby, Tony and Meshelle have filled Bacchus Wine Bar with furniture, art, and even hand-made menus and wine lists from Bali.

It’s a stunningly beautiful space, made even more appealing by the hundreds of wine possibilities that lurk within. But it’s hardly a hobby anymore.
At Bacchus Wine Bar, the fermented grape comes in sizes to please everyone’s taste. There are two-ounce samples, five-ounce pours, full bottles, half-bottles, and probably even a Methuselah or two in the back. With so many options, choosing a wine to drink at Bacchus can be intimidating. So my advice is to quickly order a splash of sparkling wine and perhaps some imported caviar. Then relax and settle in to peruse the lengthy and informative Bacchus wine list. You’ll find on that enticing list everything from an inexpensive glass of Spanish red to a budget-crushing bottle of Opus One. Or, fly high with one of Bacchus’ tempting wine flights: three glasses of, for instance, Tempranillo from three different producers. Personally, I wouldn’t miss the chance to indulge in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape tasting flight while nibbling on a platter of charcuterie. Then again, with apologies to “Sideways,” Bacchus also features some lip-smacking Merlot.

Ted Scheffler is a freelance writer and radio host. He lives in Park City with a dwindling wine collection.

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