Freestyle Asian Cuisine and Brotherly Love
Photography: Timothy Thimmes
Barbara Valaika knows about cooking. The mother of five estimates she has made and served thousands of dinners for her family over the past 40 years.
“The kids would eat everything, so if [the food] wasn’t gone in one meal, that meant I shouldn’t make it again,” she remembers. It may be poetic justice that now she is most often the receiver, rather than the creator of fine cuisine. Two of her sons have recently opened one of Park City’s hottest new restaurants on Park City’s Main Street, Shabu.
“I love their food. It’s not covered up with sauces. It’s a very clean flavor and every dish is different,” explains the mother of Shabu owners Kevin and Robert Valaika. Seeing her sons collaborate on building a restaurant from the ground up is not a surprise to her or to her husband Thomas. “We always knew they would make a good pair, no matter what they decided to do.”
Shabu opened its doors in February of 2004 in what has long been considered a troublesome space in the Main Street Mall. It is now clear that Shabu has successfully overcome the stigma of the second-floor location. “We had faith in the room, and saw the vision there,” explains Kevin. “The location won’t make or break you as long as the product is excellent,” he adds.
With a postcard view of Park City’s Main Street, Shabu’s warm, eclectic atmosphere is half its charm. The textured, reddish walls are laden with metal and wooden sculptures from local artists like John Helton and Michael Begue. “Everything you see here was done by us, our friends, or our family,” says Robert. “This restaurant is a true grassroots effort.”
Kevin is the manager and marketer, while his younger brother Robert is the head chef. Being in the presence of both brothers at the same time is a little like jumping in the middle of a typhoon. But instead of wind and rain, you get pelted with enthusiasm for what they like best: all things edible, audible and skiable. “We are not millionaires,” says Kevin.
“We are ski bums who are living our dreams.”
Their first endeavor together, Park City Private Chefs, began in 2002 and proved successful throughout the Park City area. It also gave the Valaika brothers the confidence and clientele to open their own restaurant. “We knew if our clients were enjoying Robert’s cooking in their homes, they’d love it even more in the atmosphere we’ve created at Shabu,” says Kevin.
Robert’s culinary background is impressive. The endlessly energetic chef has made life decisions that prove he is as serious about educating himself as he is about living in the mountains. Robert attended Kendall College in Chicago where he earned his four-year culinary arts degree. Soon after, he made a direct move to Aspen, Colorado where he trained under his mentor, Nobu Matsuhisa. Matsuhisa is known by many as the pioneer of sushi.
Robert has made a point of recruiting a talented and educated cooking staff, including Sous Chef Zeke Ray, who graduated from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco.
Described most often as “freestyle Asian cuisine,” the food served at Shabu is light, healthy and full of flavor. The name “Shabu” comes from a popular Japanese cooking style and dish—“Shabu Shabu.” Loosely translated, it means “swish swish,” referring to the sound made when meat, vegetables or seafood are dipped into a hot pot of broth at one’s table. Shabu Shabu is the restaurant’s signature dish that typically transforms an average meal into an interactive affair. Dining partners choose a broth and then the items they’d like to skewer and cook in that broth at the table.
Robert takes his knowledge of spices and Asian sauces to create a healthy, flavorful and unique menu. Heavy batters, or thick creamy-style sauces are simply not available at Shabu. Instead, patrons will find dishes like Seafood Donabe, and Wok Seared Diver Scallops that use only fresh, not fried ingredients.
In addition to a creative menu, Shabu is now known for its live music. Local musicians are an integral part of the restaurant, and perform three nights a week. Kevin explains it this way: “Shabu is about creativity in food and atmosphere, combined with live jazz.”
Kevin Valaika is no stranger to restaurants in Park City. A 14-year resident, the blonde hipster has managed and opened several notable dining establishments, including Robert Redford’s Zoom. “The goal has always been to live and work in Park City where we can pursue our passions of skiing and making people happy.”
For now, the goal is to keep the good times and the good food coming at Shabu: something the Valaika brothers know they couldn’t have done without their friends and family. But their mother (and true head chef) Barbara gives “the boys” credit where credit is due:
“It’s amazing what they’ve done on their own,” says Barbara. “I’m so glad they are getting recognition for something they’ve put their hearts and souls into.”
Shabu, at 333 Main Street in the Main Street Mall, is open 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., seven days a week. 645.SAKE.
Katie Eldridge is a big fan of healthy Asian food, so don’t be surprised if you see her doing additional “research” at Shabu. The director of public relations at The Canyons will keep busy this summer exploring the many treasures of Utah by foot and by bike and maybe sneaking in a few concerts.
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