A Taste of Talisker for All of Us
For years we've seen the advertisements about living the good life at Talisker, with enticing pictures of Lauren Hutton and other gorgeous models romping about the snow-covered mountains, wrapped in luxurious winter woolens, big smiles on their faces. Problem is, Talisker's developments - Tuhaye, Empire Pass and Red Cloud - are - uh - shall we say, a tad out of my price range. Finally, though, Talisker has a public component for all of us locals to enjoy - Talisker on Main restaurant. It opened in January and it's just delightful.
Many of you will remember chef John Murcko - he was with Bill White Enterprises for 15 years, helping to build some of town's most successful restaurants (Grappa, Wahso, Chimayo, just to name a few.) In 2006, he took a job running all of Talisker's restaurants - a great job for him, I'm sure, but we've missed his culinary delights. Now we have him back.
The food - deemed "new American cuisine," provides the comfort food items we all crave during ski season. The buttermilk chicken, served with to-die-for biscuits, creamed spinach and cippolini onions, melts in your mouth. The beef short rib "shepherd's pie" is a deconstruction of the old world favorite, served with roasted corn bisque, potato foam and sage butter brûléed potato. The pan roasted New York sirloin comes with Yorkshire pudding (worth ordering in itself) and wild mushroom charlotte. If you're a brussel sprout fan at all, I predict that the scrumptious roasted brussel sprout salad with jerez vinegar, pomegranate, pancetta and hazelnuts will garner a cult following soon. The artisan steak and fondue appetizer, with Rockhill Creamery Wasatch gruyere and Niman Ranch tenderloin, Rocky Mountain rye, caramelized onion and foraged mushroom sauté, is a meal unto itself, and washes down with a glass of pinot noir dreamily. (The wine list, by the way, is huge, comprehensive and affordable). Word has it the lobster hush puppies with tarragon butter are already a favorite, and the desserts, by beloved Utah pastry chef Aimee Altizer are all delicious, from the blue cheese and pear plate to the warm chocolate tart with toasted marshmallows, chocolate malt gelato and the best salted caramel sauce I've ever had - a new love, for sure.
The atmosphere is comfortable and unique. The historic building at 515 Main was once the famous Star Meat and Grocery, which served Parkites for about 30 years from the 1920s to 1950s. The antique tin ceilings still stand, as well as the turn-of-the-century vibe, but with some comfortable updates, like the stately leather chairs and banquettes that make the seating at all tables oh-so-comfortable. Throw in some shabby chic like the vintage chandelier that hangs over the server's stand just outside the exhibition kitchen, black and white tiles, a gleaming kitchen and a fabulous all-glass store front allowing diners to watch the Main Street passersby, and you have a winning combination. The place is lively, yet with seating for just 43, still an intimate space where you can hear your dinner companions' witty conversation. My favorite tables of all sit in the wine room just off the main dining room - reserve one for a semi-private romantic dinner (wine lockers are available for rent by the year - provide your own stock and have it waiting for you whenever you visit Talisker on Main.) The other gem in this place is the super cool patio bordering the building - huge fireplaces make it user-friendly even in winter. Service at Talisker on Main was absolutely excellent - well informed, pleasant and not pretentious. There's a good vibe in this place. I'll definitely be back. Right now, they're open only for dinner, but have plans to open for lunch in the upcoming months. Hours are 5:30 - 10 p.m. Mon - Sunday, 658-5479. We're livin' the life now, people. Enjoy!
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Kristen Gould Case is editor of Park City Magazine and a freelance writer who publishes nationally. Weaned on the blue ice slopes of New England, she moved to Park City 23 years ago and hasn't looked back.
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